Bach Mai in Refinery29 Couture Feature by Frances Sola-Santiago

But emerging couture designers are stepping away from these standards. Back in October, fashion insiders took notice when Vietnamese-American designer Bach Mai presented his debut collection. An alum of Oscar de la Renta and John Galliano’s Maison Margiela, Mai’s resumé gives a hint of what his work looks like: full-skirted gowns in high-low hemlines, peplum strapless tops, and metallic slip dresses that drape over the body like liquid paint. “It's irreverent, glamour and unabashed femininity that just has always been a part of my universe,” Mai told Refinery29 of his brand. “It’s not only about the aesthetic, but also this appreciation for the craftsmanship to come back.” Impeccable technique aside, what makes Bach Mai’s work innovative is the versatility that allows his designs to bring couture into the everyday. See: the bomber jackets that are paired with full, skirted gowns and leather pencil skirts featuring a too-open-to-walk-in middle slit.